External Parasites And The Health Of Your Pet

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External Parasites and the Health of Your Pet

Fleas

Flea Basics
Fleas thrive when the weather is warm and humid. Depending on your climate, fleas may be a seasonal or year-round problem. Your pet can pick up fleas wherever an infestation exists, often in areas frequented by other cats and dogs. Adult fleas are dark brown, no bigger than a sesame seed, and able to move rapidly over your pet’s skin.

Adult fleas live their entire lives on your pet. Female fleas begin laying eggs within 24 hours of selecting your pet as a host, producing up to 50 eggs each day. These eggs fall from your pet onto the floor or furniture, including your pet’s bed, or onto any other indoor or outdoor area where your pet happens to go. Tiny, worm-like larvae hatch from the eggs and burrow into carpets, under furniture, or into soil before spinning a cocoon. The cocooned flea pupae can lie dormant (inactive) for weeks before emerging as adults that are ready to infest (or reinfest) your pet. The result is a flea life cycle of anywhere from 12 days to 6 months.

Risks and Consequences
You may not know that your pet has fleas until their number increases to the point that your pet is obviously uncomfortable. Signs of flea problems range from mild redness to severe scratching that can lead to open sores and skin infections. One of the first things you may notice on a pet with fleas is “flea dirt” — the black flea droppings left on your pet’s coat.

Fleas bite animals and suck their blood; young or small pets with heavy flea infestations may become anemic. Some pets can develop an allergy to flea saliva that may result in more severe irritation and scratching. Also, pets can become infected with certain types of tapeworms if they ingest fleas carrying tapeworm eggs. In areas with moderate to severe flea infestations, people may also be bitten by fleas. While fleas are capable of transmitting several other infectious diseases to pets and people, this is rare.

Treatment and Control
Your veterinarian will recommend an appropriate flea control plan for your pet based upon your needs and the severity of the flea infestation.

Fleas spend a lot of their time off of your pet and in the environment. In addition to treating your pet, reduce the flea population in your house by thoroughly cleaning your pet’s sleeping quarters and vacuuming floors and furniture that your pet comes in contact with frequently. Careful and regular vacuuming/cleaning of the pet’s living area helps to remove and kill flea eggs, larvae, and pupae. You may also have to treat your house with insecticides to kill the fleas; consult with your veterinarian about products safe for use around pets and children.

With moderate and severe flea infestations, you may be advised to treat your yard in addition to treating the inside of your home. Your veterinarian can recommend an appropriate course of action and suggest ways to prevent future flea infestations.

Ticks

Tick Basics
Hosting a tick is the price dogs or, less commonly, cats may pay for investigating shrubbery, brush, or wild undergrowth. Ticks have a four-stage life cycle, and immature ticks often feed on small, wild animals found in forests, prairies, and brush. Adult ticks seek larger hosts like dogs and cats who venture into these habitats. Tick exposure may be seasonal, depending on geographic location.

Risks and Consequences
Ticks are most often found around your dog’s neck, in the ears, in the folds between the legs and the body, and between the toes. Cats may have ticks on their neck or face. Tick bites can cause skin irritation and heavy infestations can cause anemia in pets. Ticks are also capable of spreading serious infectious diseases (such as Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, and others) to the pets and the people on which they feed. Disease risk varies by geographic area and tick species.

Treatment and Control
Prompt removal of ticks is very important because it lessens the chance of disease transmission from the tick to your pet. Remove ticks by carefully using tweezers to firmly grip the tick as close to the pet’s skin as possible and gently pulling the tick free without twisting it. After removing the tick, crush it while avoiding contact with tick fluids that can carry disease. Do not attempt to smother the tick with alcohol or petroleum jelly, or apply a hot match to it, as this may cause the tick to regurgitate saliva into the wound, increasing the risk of disease.

Pets at risk for ticks should be treated during the tick season with an appropriate tick preventative. Your veterinarian can recommend a product best suited to your pet’s needs. Owners who take their pets to tick-prone areas during camping, sporting, or hiking trips should examine their pets for ticks immediately upon returning home and remove them from their pets. If your pet picks up ticks in your backyard, trimming bushes and removing brush may reduce your pet’s exposure to tick habitats.

Ear Mites

Mite Basics
Ear mites are common in young cats and dogs, and generally confine themselves to the ears and surrounding area. Mites are tiny and individual mites may be seen only with the aid of a microscope. Your pet can pick up ear mites by close contact with an infested pet or its bedding.

Risks and Consequences
Ear mites can cause intense irritation of the ear canal. Signs of ear mite infestation include excessive head shaking and scratching of the ears. Your pet may scratch to the point that it creates bleeding sores around its ears. A brown or black ear discharge is common with ear mite infections.

Treatment and Control
Treatment of ear mites involves thorough ear cleaning and medication. Your veterinarian can recommend an effective treatment plan.

Sarcoptic Mange Mites

Mite Basics
Microscopic sarcoptic mange mites cause sarcoptic mange, also known as scabies. Sarcoptic mange mites affect dogs of all ages, during any time of the year. Sarcoptic mange mites are highly contagious to other dogs and may be passed by close contact with infested animals, bedding, or grooming tools.

Risks and Consequences
Sarcoptic mange mites burrow through the top layer of the dog’s skin and cause intense itching. Clinical signs include generalized hair loss, a skin rash, and crusting. Skin infections may develop secondary to the intense irritation. People who come in close contact with an affected dog may develop a skin rash and should see their physician.

Treatment and Control
Dogs with sarcoptic mange require medication to kill the mites and additional treatment to soothe the skin and resolve related infections. Cleaning and treatment of the dog’s environment is also necessary.

Demodectic Mange Mites

Mite Basics
Demodectic mange caused by demodectic mange mites is mainly a problem in dogs. Demodectic mange mites are microscopic, cigar-shaped, and not highly contagious. A mother dog, however, may pass the mites to her puppies.

Risks and Consequences
Localized demodectic mange tends to appear in young dogs as patches of scaly skin and redness around the eyes and mouth and, perhaps, the legs and trunk. Unlike other types of mange, demodectic mange may signal an underlying medical condition, and your pet’s overall health should be carefully evaluated. Less commonly, young and old dogs experience a generalized form of demodectic mange and can exhibit widespread patches of redness, hair loss, and scaly, thickened skin.

Treatment and Control
Your veterinarian will discuss treatment options with you. Treatment of dogs with localized demodectic mange generally results in favorable outcomes. Generalized demodectic mange (demodecosis), however, may be difficult to treat, and treatment may only control the condition, rather than cure it.

Important Points

Look for fleas, ticks, and coat abnormalities any time you groom your dog or cat or when you return home from areas that are likely to have higher numbers of these parasites.

See your veterinarian if your pet excessively scratches, chews, or licks its haircoat, or persistently shakes its head. These clinical signs may indicate the presence of external parasites or other conditions requiring medical care.

Prompt treatment of parasites lessens your pet’s discomfort, decreases the chances of disease transmission from parasite to pet, and may reduce the degree of home infestation.

Discuss the health of all family pets with your veterinarian when one pet becomes infested. Some parasites cycle among pets, making control of infestations difficult unless other pets are considered. Consult your veterinarian before beginning treatment.

Tell your veterinarian if you have attempted any parasite remedies, as this may impact your veterinarian’s recommendation.

Be especially careful when applying insecticides to cats, as cats are particularly sensitive to these products. Never use a product that is not approved for cats, as the results could be lethal.

Follow label directions carefully.

Leave treatment to the experts. Your veterinarian offers technical expertise and can assist you in identifying products that are most likely to effectively and safely control your pet’s parasite problem.

WoodCreek Pet Products
http://www.woodcreekmall.com/FleaTick.html

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Advantage For Dogs Isn’t Expensive Anymore

Advantage flea control for dogs is a non-prescription topical flea treatment manufactured by Bayer that can be used on dogs and puppies seven weeks or older. Once administered, Advantage Multi for dogs prevents fleas from biting within just a few minutes. In just twelve hours, Advantage kills 98% to 100% of adult fleas on your dog.

Advantage Flea for dogs is water resistant so you don’t have to keep reapplying it if your dogs love the water or after bathing your dogs. Lasting for one month, Advantage terminates fleas before they can lay their eggs, killing re-infesting fleas within 2 hours. Advantage Multi for dogs is available 1-10 lbs, dogs 11-20 lbs, dogs 21-55 lbs, and for dogs 55 lbs and over.

Pre-existing pupae on the dogs body may continue to appear for six weeks or longer depending upon the climatic conditions. The successive feeding activity of fleas on pets may elicit a hypersensitivity skin disorder known as flea allergy dermatitis (FAD). Treatment of pets with Advantage rapidly kills fleas and may reduce the occurrence of this condition.

Directions for use:

1. Remove one applicator tube from the package.

2. Hold applicator tube in an upright position.

3. Take cap off tube.

4. Flip the cap around and place other end of cap back on tube.

5. Twist cap to break seal.

6. Remove cap from tube.

For Dogs up to 20 lbs

The dog should be standing for easy application. Expose the skin on the dogs back between the shoulder blades. Place the tip of the tube on the skin and squeeze the tube twice to expel the entire contents of the tube directly on the skin. Do not get this product in your pet’s eyes or mouth.

For Dogs 21 lbs or over

The dog should be standing for easy application. The entire contents of the Advantage tube should be applied evenly to three of four spots on the top of the back from the shoulder to the base of the tail. At each spot, expose the skin. Place the tip of the tube on the skin and gently squeeze to expel a portion of the solution on the skin. Do not apply an excessive amount of solution at any one spot as this could cause some of the solution to run and drip off the side of the dog.

At gryffonproducts, we offer Advantage Flea for dogs at a lower price than most competetors. We are less expensive than your local vet, pet store or even some online marketers. Shop from the ease and comfort of your own home and gryffonproducts will ship your order to your door.

WARNING:

Advantage Multi for dogs is for external use on dogs 7 weeks or older. Consult a veterinarian before using on medicated animals, animals using this product with other pesticides, and debilitated, aged, pregnant or nursing animals.

Always follow packaging instructions before use, and consult the manufacturer or your vet for any possible interactions that may occur with other medications. This is not for human use. Keep this and all medications out of the reach of children.

Active Ingredients:

Imidacloprid

This information is for informational purposes only and is not intended to be a substitute for the expertise and professional judgment of your veterinarian.
This information is not to be used for diagnosis or treatment of your pet. You should always consult your own veterinarian for specific advice concerning the treatment of your pet.

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Info About Flea Control

Flea Control Tips

There are many flea products on the market today that make a lot of claims which can be confusing to the consumer trying to select a flea control product. But before applying any flea insecticide, it is important to consider the complete scope of the flea problem. The most important principle in a total flea control program is that the pet’s environment (indoors and outdoors) as well as the pet and all other pets (dogs, cats, and ferrets) should be treat simultaneously.

Before using any insecticides, the environment must be thoroughly cleaned to remove as many of the adult fleas, eggs, larvae, and pupae as possible. Vacuuming with a beater-bar brush is extremely effective in removing adult fleas and other immature forms. Vacuuming raises the carpet fibers which makes the immature forms of fleas accessible to insecticides, in addition to aerating and drying out the carpet. Even if the vacuum fails to remove the cocoon because of its sticky nature, it will stimulate pre-emerged adults to emerge from the pupae, allowing them to be sucked up by the vacuum or exposing them to the insecticides. Be sure to thoroughly vacuum the “source points” where the pet spends most of it’s time. If that is a chair or bed, be sure to vacuum and treat under the furniture, because the eggs and larvae will actually fall off and the larvae will crawl under the furniture away from the light. Be sure to dispose of the vacuum bag immediately. Don’t use a flea collar in the vacuum bag because it is not approved for use in such a manner and may pose a threat to your health. You may also want to steam clean your carpet at this time which will further help in the mechanical removal of fleas. Be sure your pet’s bedding and blankets or rugs routinely occupied by your pet are washed in hot water. This is something that should be repeated on a weekly basis.

Outdoor cleanup will involve mowing and raking the yard thoroughly, including removal of any organic debris from flower beds and under bushes. This will also increase the exposure of the fleas to the insecticides. Be sure to clean any areas where your pet spends time, such as the garage, basement, pet carrier, and automobile. Non-carpeted floors should be mopped because fleas may develop in cracks and crevices.
The next step in flea control is the application of insec¬ticides to all pets and the indoor and outdoor environment simultaneously. All pets, such as dogs, cats, and ferrets, should be treated at the same time, and free-roaming animals kept out of the environment.

There is no one chemical or chemical combination of insecticides that will fit every flea infestation problem or fulfill the needs and desires of every pet owner. One natural and safer approach in killing and controlling fleas on the pet and in the environment is to use a product with a pyrethrin and an insect growth regulator (IGR). IGRs are synthetic juvenile insect hormones that have ovicidal and larvicidal activity. The pyrethrin will provide the quick kill of the adult flea, while the IGR will prevent eggs and larvae from developing into the pupae. There are currently two IGRs used in flea control products on the market—methoprene and fenoxycarb. These are extremely stable and provide prolonged residual activity of approximately 30 days.
You can also find IGRs in foggers and premise sprays which can be used alone or in combination with other chemicals. Foggers are commonly used by pet owners but several precautions should be considered:
• Foggers should be placed in each room to be treated (because they don’t effectively go around corners).
• Fogger spray does not go under furniture.
• All people and pets, including fish and birds, must be removed before treatment.
• Utensils and all surfaces in which food is prepared must be covered.
• The home must be thoroughly ventilated and chemicals dried before people and pets return.
Areas that cannot be reached by the foggers, such as closets or under furniture, and heavily infested source points should be sprayed by hand with the insecticide. Often, the heavily infested source points in the home or yard need to be retreated in two to three weeks, because the pre-emerged adults inside the pupae or cocoons are protected from the initial application of chemicals. Retreat the areas where you see fleas. In most cases, these will be the source points or hot spots.
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Find Helpful Tips About Information On Flea Control

controlling cat fleas in buildings requires a variety of approaches. Before starting a control program, look through each room in the building to determine areas where larval development occurs. Flea populations are highest in places where dogs or cats regularly sleep. Flea larvae are not usually found in areas of heavy pedestrian traffic or locations that receive exposure to sunlight; they are likely to be present in areas where adult fleas have left dried blood and feces.

Sanitation. Thoroughly and regularly clean areas where adult fleas, flea larvae, and flea eggs are found. Vacuum floors, rugs, carpets, upholstered furniture, and crevices around baseboards and cabinets daily or every other day to remove flea eggs, larvae, adults, and food sources. Vacuuming is very effective in picking up adults and stimulating preemerged adults to leave their cocoons. Flea eggs can survive and develop inside vacuum bags and adults may be able to escape to the outside, so immediately destroy bags by burning or by sealing them in a plastic trash bag and placing them in a covered trash container. Launder pet bedding in hot, soapy water at least once a week.

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Thoroughly clean items brought into the building, such as used carpets or upholstered furniture, to prevent these from being a source of flea infestation.

Insecticides. Several insecticides are registered for controlling fleas indoors. Sprays are only needed when you detect an infestation in your home. The most effective products contain one of the insect growth regulators: methoprene or pyriproxyfen. Fleas are known to build up resistance to insecticides, so always supplement sprays with other methods of control such as thorough, frequent vacuuming.

Use a hand sprayer or aerosol to apply insecticides directly to infested areas of carpets and furniture. Total release aerosols (”room foggers”) do not provide the coverage and long-term effectiveness of direct sprays unless they contain an insect growth regulator. Treatments with insecticides other than IGRs often fail to control flea larvae because the treatment material fails to contact them at the base of carpet fibers where they develop.

Spray carpets, pet sleeping areas, carpeted areas beneath furniture, baseboards, window sills, and other areas harboring adults or larvae. Use an insect growth regulator (methoprene or pyriproxyfen) that specifically targets the larvae and has a long residual life. As soon as the spray dries, vacuum to remove additional fleas that emerge from the pupal stage in carpets and upholstery. Fleas will continue to emerge for about 2 weeks after treatment because pupae are not killed by sprays. Continue to vacuum and do not treat again for at least several weeks. Always seal and discard vacuum bags so fleas don’t escape.

Outdoors

Outdoor flea populations are most prevalent in coastal localities and other places with moderate daytime temperatures and fairly high humidities. In Central Valley locations, populations can become very numerous in shaded and protected areas such as sheltered animal enclosures, crawl spaces where pets may sleep, or vegetated areas adjacent to buildings. If an infested outdoor location is not treated, the flea problem may reoccur if pets are reinfested. However, treatment of the pet with any of the preferred pet treatment products listed above will normally prevent reinfestation.

Outdoor sprays are not necessary unless you detect significant numbers of adult fleas. One way to do this is to walk around pet resting areas wearing white socks pulled up to the knee. If fleas are present, they will jump onto socks and be readily visible.

The best products for elimination of fleas outdoors are formulations that contain a knockdown material such as pyrethrin or permethrin plus an insect growth regulator (pyriproxyfen) to inhibit larval maturation. Avoid products containing diazinon or chlorpyrifos as these materials pollute waterways when they are washed into storm drains by rain, hosing, or irrigation.

Apply sprays directly in locations where pets rest and sleep such as doghouse and kennel areas, under decks, and next to the foundation. It is seldom necessary to treat the whole yard or lawn areas. Flea larvae are unlikely to survive in areas with sunlight exposure or substantial foot traffic.

Regular lawn watering will help destroy larvae and prevent development of excessive flea populations. If possible, open pet sleeping areas to sunlight by removing low-hanging vegetation

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Find Important Information About Pets Flea Control

Getting Rid of Fleas
If you find yourself with a flea problem, you’ll probably need to try a couple of different flea control methods before you get rid of all of the fleas on your cat and in your home.

It’s up to you to choose which treatment you think is best for your cat, you, and your home. Treatments may include using flea collars, flea combs, flea dips, flea powders, flea exterminators, and other flea control methods.

In addition to treating your cat and your home, you may also have to treat your yard.

Taking care of a flea problem doesn’t mean only getting rid of the adult fleas or just the fleas you can see. You also have to get rid of all the fleas in their various life stages throughout your home and your yard. This will require diligence on your part to get rid of all the fleas, but it is well worth it for your cat’s health.

Choosing a safe, as well as effective, method of flea control is critical.

Different levels of danger accompany all flea control products and methods and you should choose only the safest and most effective method for your cat and you.

Be careful when applying chemical flea treatments to your cat, as these will irritate any open sores she may have. Also, chemical flea medicines should not be used on kittens under the age of four months. These are two good reasons for trying to stick with natural flea control products, as they are generally less irritating to your cat and her skin, and overall, less dangerous for your cat, the environment, and you.

Controlling Fleas is Critical to Keeping Your Cat Healthy
Uncontrollable itching and scratching. Allergies. Tapeworm. Hair loss. Major discomfort. Even anemia and more serious health problems. Fleas hurt your cat.

Controlling fleas on your precious cat and in your cat’s environment is so important in helping you deal with one of the worst external parasites your cat will ever face. Keeping your cat and your home flea-free is not only important for your cat’s health, but for your own health, as well.

At the worst, even one single flea bite can lead to serious problems for your cat. Uncontrolled fleas, flea infestation, and flea bites can lead to allergies, tapeworm, anemia, etc. Diligence is an important part of taking care of your cat.

Indoor Cats Need Protection, Too!

Flea control is critical for all cats, even those cats who never go outside. As a matter of fact, your indoor cat and cat environment can have an even worse flea problem than your outdoor cat.

We often make the mistake of thinking that just because our cat lives indoors, he will never have any fleas. Wrong! Fleas can be brought into your home from various sources, such as other animals and even you. Fleas are excellent hitchhikers! They can hop on your clothes when you’re outside and jump off once inside your home.

One flea can lay up to 20 eggs at a time and at their worse, they can lay eggs every day! So by the time you realize you have fleas, your home may already be severely infested.

Weak Cats Have Worse Flea Problems

Fleas are parasites. They prey on weakened and less healthy cats. Veterinarians commonly observe that cats in the poorest health attract the most fleas. So the healthier your cat is, the less likely you’ll have flea infestations on your cat and in your home.

And if you end up with a flea problem, your healthy cat will be in a stronger position to deal with your flea control efforts.

To keep your cat healthy, feed him a diet of the highest quality cat food you can afford, make sure he gets regular exercise with safe and interactive cat toys, and keep his environment clean.

Add regular grooming to these preventative measures and you should be able to keep your cat in excellent health and flea-free.

How to Tell if Your Cat Has Fleas

The most obvious sign of a flea is the flea body itself. These are reddish-brown little guys about the size of a pinhead. They have incredible jumping ability. Fleas are often easily found around your cat’s neck and base of the tail.

But just because you don’t see the body, don’t assume there aren’t any fleas. Fleas go through various life cycle stages, and they can be present in your home in different (almost invisible) stages.

To check your cat for fleas, part his hair around his neck, back, hind legs, and near the base of his tail. You can also use a special flea comb and run it gently through these areas to check for fleas.

In addition to actual fleas, you are also looking for any tiny black flecks. These black flecks are flea excrement (or “flea dirt”) and are a sure sign that these pesky parasites are around. To be extra sure that these black flecks are flea dirt, you can place the flecks on a wet paper towel. If you see a reddish brown circle form around the fleck, you’ve got yourself some flea droppings and a flea problem (the flecks are your cat’s digested blood).

And although not every itch means that your cat has fleas, you should suspect fleas if your cat is doing a good deal of licking and chewing around her hind legs and back, especially near the base of the tail. This is often accompanied by hair loss. If your cat is licking and chewing a lot, be sure to give her a thorough inspection.

Inspecting your outdoor cats for fleas should be a regular part of your flea control efforts.

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